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Saturday, February 28, 2009

Torres del Paine National Park, Chile

Iceberg we saw while we were hiking the trail on day one of the "W"

Our first campsite.... way too many people!

Another glacier




The view from the second day of the lagunas

The mirador in the Valles de Frances





Sunrise on the third day.... ahhh amazing!





Finally we get to the Torres! Of which this park is most famous





The Torres at sunrise... it was cold!









The view as we were leaving the park... take a look at the reflection in the water... Tony has a good eye!















Wow did we get lucky! The ¨W¨was fantastic!

Let me explain... The W is a section of trail in Torres del Paine National Park. The park is in Patagonia, but it is not part of the Andes Mountain chain. It consists of Glaciers, Mountains, Torres, and Cuernos... which you will see in the pictures.

The W happens to be very popular. When I say popular I mean at our first campsite there were probably about 200 tents set up, not including those who were staying in the Refugio (backcountry hostel´s). Also common for this park is really bad, nasty weather. Wind, rain, snow, hail, etc. The last time Tony was here, he hiked this trail, and all he kept saying this time was ¨Wow, I didn´t know that was there, awesome! look at that, I had no idea we could see that!" - you get the idea...

Fortunately we somehow pleased the weather gods, and got four days of great weather! Two days we had rain and clouds, but we couldn´t have asked for a better trek to end our outdoor adventures in South America. Check out the pictures, they really speak for themselves... I´ll shut up now :)

Thursday, February 26, 2009

El Chalten & Perito Moreno, Argentina

So the pictures are out of order, but I will label them for you... Glacier Perito Moreno are the first five pics















Here obviously starts El Chalten...












Fitz Roy through the clouds with a little sun peaking through





The View of Fitz Roy as we were leaving town...











I was able to catch this picture of a hawk when the bus driver grudgingly stopped to let us take pictures :) Thank you mister bus driver!
EL CHALTEN & CERRO FITZ ROY
El Chalten, Argentina only exists according to Argentina (maps in Chile show an empty space where it is supposed to be). It was a town thrown together literally in 1985 because Chile and Argentina have long disputed the actual border in the Southern region of their countries. Cerro Fitz Roy is the tallest peak in Patagonia and so Argentina decided to slap a town together there to reap the tourism benefits first and it has worked out quite well for them. It has grown a lot since Tony was there 3ish years ago. Some of the streets are paved now and there are a lot more businesses.

We arrived at around 10 PM and it was raining... we set our tent up in the rain, cooked in the rain, and went to bed with the intention of waking up early to see the sunrise on Cerro Fitz Roy. But we awoke to rain yet again! The mountains which are spectacular were covered in clouds and we couldn´t see a damn thing... so we slept in and headed out in the afternoon to hike anyway just in case the weather cleared. We hiked to a lookout and to a glacier and it the weather cleared enough to see the mountains briefly through a heavy layer of mist and clouds, but we were happy with what we got. We only had a day and a half to be there, so we hiked as much as we could, but the real treat was actually the drive out of town. We headed to El Calafate in the afternoon and the mountains opened up and we got amazing views of the gorgeous peaks that make the town of El Chalten and we were content...

We spent one night in El Calafate which we spent with our Brazilian friend named Vanessa. We met her on the bus ride from Ushuaia where we had to wait 7 hours at the Strait of Magellen and then again on the bust to El Chalten, so we were quickly becoming great bus buddies. We invited Vanessa over to our campsite for dinner, she is absolutely great and she has learned all her english from TV and movies, so she says the funniest things!
GLACIER PERITO MORENO
We got up early the next morning to head out to the Perito Moreno Glacier outside of El Calafate. The bus left at 7:30 in the morning and arrived back at 5 PM. We had a bus scheduled for 5 PM to take us to Puerto Natales (Chile). Yes we know, a tight squeeze... we were nervous. But thanks to Vanessa who was also traveling to Puerto Natales, she held the bus until we arrived a mere 4 minutes late! Thanks Vanessa!

But back to Perito Moreno.... WOW what an amazing trip. It was five hours in front of an enormous glaciel field. There are no trails except some metal boardwalks that go up close to the glacier. You think 5 hours is too much to spend looking at the same thing? We thought maybe, but no way we could have stayed there for days watching it! It is very active, it is growing and pushing forward daily and about 2 meters of ice fall from the front of it each day. We were able to see at least three major ice falls and we caught some on video. As well you can hear the loud popping and cracking from deep in the crevasses. As is the nature of a glacier, they grow and melt and help regulate the temperature on earth (Al Gore explains this a lot better than me:) But, while we were enamored with this glacier we also were faced with a very clear sign that global warming is a fact. This glacier should not be so active. So while we humans use this environmental wonder for our own entertainment we should continue to work on ways to stop unnecessary damage to our world. hmmm... tough things to think about, but important.

As I said before we arrived in the nick of time to catch our bus to Puerto Natales, Chile. We got to a warm, friendly hostal and got a good nights rest and headed out the next day for our last major outdoor adventure to Nacional Parque Torres del Paine.... stay tuned!

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

Reflections...



Well, as you can see we do indeed have a little bit of time on our hands. We are between treks in Ushuaia and Tony found a job he is applying for so I have some time while he is working on his cover letter. We have both been reflecting a lot in the last 10 days seeing as this is our last month traveling. I suppose that´s what happens when you spend such a significant amount of time doing something...


Particularly interesting to me is the experience of being outside the U.S. for so long. Tony experienced this the last time he traveled, but for me this was the first time I spent more than three weeks out. It really has an impact on a person. You really begin to see things from a different perspective, a broader lense. You look at a world map and you see more than you have ever seen before, at least that is happening to me. I want to learn about each and every place I can. I want to meet the people and feel the culture. I appreciate the break from intense media messages that seem to bombard us everyday in the states. And I relish the fact that my cell phone is not attached to my hip anymore :)

Hmmm.... we have seen life in a more simple form. Hardworking people living simple lives, eating simple food, sure there are less regulations and they don´t even refrigerate eggs or yogurt here, but I bet their immune systems are stronger than ours...

The people we have met along the way...wow, we have met some amazing people along this journey. Friends from all over the world who carry similar views, ideals, and values that we hold dear. Endless conversations defending and also not defending the United States, changing the perception that others sometimes have of Americans. We have heard a lot on this trip... ¨wow, you guys are the first Americans we like!¨ Hmmmm.... how can we change this world view. There really are a lot of great Americans out there.

When I think of snapshots of places we visited, here are some things I will remember. The hands of a Bolivian woman who was sitting in the seat in front of me on a bus. Tough, weathered, leathery, strong hands... dirt under the nails, no rings except for a simple wedding band. And an equally weathered, beautiful, unpainted face. Hair pulled back into two braids... smiling and laughing with her seat mate. She gets off the bus in the altitude of the altiplano with nothing in sight, off on foot with her cloth sack tied on her back to her home nestled in the chilly hills of a beautiful countryside.

I will remember the little kids in Peru who followed us on our trek which crossed their path to school. Two small children, walking through snow with sandals and no socks. Dirty dirty dirty smiling faces, curious about these white people hiking for fun on paths that their parents travel every day to work the fields.

I will remember fires in the streets on New Year´s in Baños, Ecuador. No fire codes, no rules, just lots and lots of drunk people and fire- oh and fireworks too!

I will remember that on a boat in the Galapagos there was a passenger on the same cruise as us who had my uncle as a math teacher in high school and graduated with my aunt, reminding me of what a truly small world this is.

I will remember hard hiking and backpacking days in the backcountry of all of these places of which I thank my love, my partner, my best friend who was so excited to go there with me. He was willing to go the extra mile to get out of the cities, carry a lot of the group gear so my foot wouldn´t hurt as much, and always making me laugh no matter the circumstance.

Many of you know that for me this is my 30th year... a transition year for me in career, in life, and in love. I was searching for a rite of passage opportunity on this trip to really celebrate the next steps I am, we are about to take. I thought going to see a Shaman in Colombia was maybe what I was searching for, then I thought well a really tough physical and mental experience is what I need, then I realized that I don´t need anything specific to mark this transition... this is it. I accomplished my transition with this entire experience. I feel rested, relieved, refreshed, and renewed.

What are we going back to? Hmmm... we recently came across a couple of Americans who had just started their 2 month travel experience. We asked them, what have we missed in the last 6 months in the U.S.? They sat for a minute and thought about it, and then said, ¨wow, you really missed a lot, a lot has happened in the last 6 months¨ We may have ¨missed¨a lot but, we have also seen it from a different perspective. Instead of being in it we have been on the outside looking in. We have had the chance to seek out information instead of having it jammed down our throats as one of my friends said to me (I don´t remember now who said it). We were able to celebrate with the rest of the world on the election of our new president, we have heard about the loss of jobs, we have felt the hit of the American Dollar more acutely since we calculate costs every day and base it on the currency exchange rate. We have talked to people from other countries and listened to how our U.S. economy has now dragged their economy down with it. Do you know that in Ireland the loss of jobs is so bad that people were leaving and going to Australia, and now Australia has cut back or shut down their visa´s because they can´t deal with the overflow of people? We met one traveler from Australia who took a few months off to biketour with his wife because he was so burned out at his job. He was a financial advisor and he was tired to having to tell people bad news all the time, all these people who worked so hard all their lives and now are none the richer for it.

I guess we don´t really know what we are going back to. We are in our 30´s with no jobs, no home, and few things. But we have youth, hope, and determination on our sides. I know there are many people out there who are facing similar situations, loss of income, loss of investments, a starting over- or chance to redirect our lives is the best we might get for right now. So when we go back, we will work day by day, week by week, to help get ourselves and in effect our country back on track. We have faith, but we also believe that people have a lot of changing to do. Change in three major ways... 1. is becoming more environmentally conscious, consuming less stuff, looking for alternatives to oil, going green 2. Improving the middle class, or actually, recreating the middle class that is disappearing before our eyes 3. being able to trust our government again and believe that our votes, our beliefs will be reflected in the actions of our leaders. I know it is a tall order, but Tony and I have had many conversations about this and we hope to be part of the changes now and when we return to the states.

One thing is for sure, we are now life long world travelers and hope to continue to do what we need to do to be able to get out there an see the world.

Feliz Viaje y Disfruta Vida (happy travels and enjoy life)



stay tuned for updates and pictures from the last days in Patagonia... for now we are going to eat our way through Buenos Aires, when we actually get there! with love C & T

The End of the World...Tierra del Fuego, Argentina

Ushuaia, the gateway to Antarctica







Remember our friends from Galapagos? We met Cecilie and Morten for dinner...we saw them on the equator and then at the end of the world! Where will we see them next?


The backdrop to this amazing town... a Glacier








The end of the road? I guess we´ll just have to find another one to explore...












Cerro Guanaco... an amazing hike and we are only at 970 meters... patagonia is a strange place!














friendly fox

more views from the Cerro Guanaco trail















Laguna Tempano just outside Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego












Crossing the strait of Magellan was magical (view the video below!)



This one´s for you Carrie :) Beautiful Dragon Fly
















Campground at Laguna Caminante in Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego












The Carretera Austral, Chile

Chaiten




Parque Nacional Queulot






Carretera Austral Views










Puerto Guadal








Cook Tito whipping up a one-pot wonder for dinner :)























The Carretera Austral is the road that was built by a past leader of Chile (Pinochet) which was completed in the 90´s. The southern part of Chile is not well traversed and before the road was built, most travel to the far south was by plane or through Argentina. While the environment on Argentina´s side is sparce and fairly boring, for that stretch of land, Chile´s same stretch is vastly different on the other side of Andes Mountain chain. It is a phenomenal drive, walk, ride, or whatever you choose to do when you are there.

We started the Carretera from Chaiten. Chaiten is the town which the government has pretty much shut down since the volcano eruption last year. It is sparcely inhabited by some very frustrated Chileans. It seems the government has suspended power, water, and other necessities and is trying to buy land from people at very low costs. The rumor is that they want to gain the land, make necessary changes, and then redistribute it to the wealthier people. We felt good helping the local bus station owner by buying a ticket to head south from Chaiten. We wish them luck in their fight!

We traveled down some amazing dirt road and stopped at National Park Queulot where we hiked up to a huge Glacier. Then we caught a bus to Coyhaique again driving through amazing scenery. We arrived there and followed the lonely planets directions to our campground. Unfortunately they were slightly off and we walked for about an hour before we found it at around 9:30 pm (still daylight though) and had a late dinner. We left Coyhaique a day later headed to Puerto Guadal. That was a beautiful drive past glacier fields and a huge shimmering laguna. We got dropped off 10 km outside of Puerta Guadal and started walking to town, a nice man picked us up in his pickup and drove us the rest of the way there (hitch hiking is a way of life down here, very common, and very safe). We camped lakeside and enjoyed a beautiful patagonian sunrise the next morning. We caught a bus that day for Chile Chico where we would cross into Argentina.

Friday, February 6, 2009

update...

Hey everyone! So while we are enjoying our last few weeks abroad we will be updating the blog a little less. At the very end when we are waiting around in airports and bus stations we will update with pics and stories, but as for now we want to see and do it all before we leave!

We have exciting news also, our friend Brian Kamerzel is joining us on Feb14th for the last couple weeks of our trip! We are very excited to share patagonia with Brian! We are currently in Ushuaia (the end of the world!) we crossed the Straight of Magellan yesterday and saw dolphins, penguins, and a sea lion on the 20 minute ferry ride... truly a magical place... so for now we will say ciao and we will update towards the end of Feb.... love you all!